ALABAMA Agricultural Experiment Station OF THE Alabama Polytechnic Institute AUBURN CIRCULAR NO. 13 December, 1911 SCHOOL GARDENING BY F. E. LLOYD L. N. DUNCAN COMMITTEE OF TRUSTEES ON EXPERIMENT STATION HON. H. L. MARTIN---------------------------------------------Ozark HON. A. W. 1DELL-------------------------------------------Anniston ------ Montgomery HON. R. F. .KOLB --------------------- STATION STAFF J. President --------C. C. THACH---- F. DUGGAR-----------------------------Director and Agriculturist B. B. Ross- ------ ----------- -Chemist and State Chemist --C. A.CARY--------_- Veterinarian and Director of Farmers' Institutes J. T. ANDERSON_---------------------Chemist, Soil and Crop Investigations C. L. HARE----------- ---------------------------------------- Chemist Animal Industry DAN T. GRAYW. E. HINDS---------------------------------------------Entomologist F. E. LLOYD 1L. P. --------------------------------------------------- _Botanist N. DUNCAN*..-------------------------Agricultural F. WILLIAMS-------------------------------------------Horticulturist S. WILLIAMSON------------------------------------Associate T. BRAGG C. Extension Work Chemist Assistant Chemist . J. B. HOBDY*---------------------------- Agricultural Extension Work E. F. CAUTHEN--------------------- Associate Agriculturist and Recorder Animal Husbandman W. FJunior -Assistant Veterinarian --I. S. MCADORYW. F. TURNER ----------------- _____ -_-- Assistant in Entomology M. J. FUNCHESS----Assistant C. S. RIDGWAY.------------------------------------ Age iculturist Assistant in Botany J. C. C. Assistant in Horticulture PRICE--------------------------in Animal Industry L. W. SHOOK.-_----------------Asitn E. R. EUDALY*------------------- Assistant in Beef and Swine Husbandry ___ J. T. WILLIAMSON---------------------------- Field Agent in Agriculture bL. L VR~------------il Agent in Agriculture H. M. CONOLLY---------------------------- Field Agent in Horticulture _00%DELLA STROUD*-------------- --- Assistant in Girls' Demonstration Work to Director in Agriculture in Chemistry J. COHEN--------------------Asitn I. WV. CARPENTER_---------------------------__ __ __ __ _Field Agent in Entomology L. A. W. R. SUMMERS----- 0. H. SELLERS------------------Serty E. HosN------------------Assistant --------------------__ __ __ Assistant in Animal Industry S. S JFRDAN*------------------------------------Assistant GISSENDANNER----------------------_ C. D. _Assistant in Beef Industry in Swine Husbandry in Poultry Assistant ALLIS--------------------------------------*In Co-operation with U. S. Department of Agriculture. SCHOOL GARDENING BY F. E. LLOYD AND L. N. DUNCAN For a number of years interest in the study of living things has been steadily growing and mnre recently the attention of educators has been directed towIrd the importance of agricultural education in a broad - sense. It is now recognized as most desirable that gardening should become a part of our elementary school work. The opinion has steadily gained ground that no elementary education, especially for city children, is complete and well balanced without work of this kind. Indeed school gardening represents a legitimate development of a modern tendency in education to study things themselves rather than to study about things in bools, or to put it in another way, tc have a child learn by doing rather than by talking about it. Thus the text book, which originally was and still is largely a compendium of information, is being supplanted by the laboratory manual, or book of guidance. As a result of this change a more constructive mental activity characterizes the work of pupils in manual training, domestic art and science and school gardening. The claim is made that all this is a legitimate and proper part of education, but it is clearly not the kind of formal education we have been used to. It may, therefore, be objected that school gardening is not a part of education properly speaking and is something more or less extraneous and somewhat of an imposition upon the already fully worked, if not overworked, teacher. It will, therefore, be our aim in the present pamphlet to' show that school gardening is not only a legitimate phase of education, but a necessary and extremely important part, and further to show that what may be regarded as an imposition of more extensive duties, is really so only in appearance. School Gardening as a Factor in Education. In a broad way what is meant by education? Our usual conception of education is derived from the overshadowing of our general experiences by our experiences in the school. Living is more or less informal; going to school is a set activ- Fj 4 (Courtesy ot Superintendent . R. Baker) ity. We are expected to go to school at a certain hour each day and on certain days in the year. This is a formal duty and as such dominates, in a sense, the remaining part of our activity during childhood. In this way we gain the impression that our school hours during this period are by far the more important from the point of view of education. Indeed it is generally supposed that they constitute the whole of education. Boys for the most part, at least healthy ones, are spending most of the time out of school and a part of the time in school being mischievous, but if stop to realize that their mischievousness is a very important factor in their education, we will see that they must be learning at least as much out of school as they do in school. In reality, however, I think it will be conceded that we learn very much more outside of school. Let us for a moment think of ourselves as being compelled to go through life knowing only those things learned in school. We do not have to reflect long on this supposition to admit that we would be very helpless, pitiably so. How do we explain this? The explanation of course lies in the fact that in our waking hours, unless we are hopelessly lazy and indifferent, we are constantly gaining experiences which enable us to get along in life. In school we acquire facility in certain definite directions or rather we should do so, and we attain to refinements of speech and writing and knowledge generally, so far as possible. The school, therefore, is an attempt to organize our experiences and refine our modes of expression or in general, to standardize our actions with respect to society at large. From the point of view of life, therefore, any school exercises which will make our common experiences return more value educationally are well justified, provided only that we are rational in regard to the amount of time required. From another point of view, we learn things in life by a sort of hit and miss arrangement. We try and fail and by this process gradually learn to do things more or less as they should be done. In school we try to direct our efforts so that -we we may reduce the number of failures as far as possible. To this end we direct our effort with reference to a particular purpose and so we come to use the experimental method consciously. For example, there is no doubt of the value of elementary physics or elementary chemistry, under whatever name you please to call them, in elementary education, and we concede that the value of these lies not alone in the information obtained, but in the process of experimentation. Precisely so it is with school gardening. This may be made an experimental study dealing with a wide range of biological phenomena, which are of interest of themselves as well as for their bearing upon practical life. We may say, therefore, that the school garden is an especialiy valuable opportunity for applying the experimental method, within a field which touches our practical life at many points. To enter somewhat more into detail in regard to this value, we may say that school gardening offers a means for cultivating skill and manipulation, which awakens the interest and ambition of young pupils and leads them gradually to develop mental qualities of ambition, desire for success and the like, without which no good work can be done. It is of fundamental importance that success or failure leads a healthy mind to desire to understand why effort succeeds or fails. It is this conscious study of the causes for success or failure which makes us sure of ourselves. Thus a successful business man, in the proper sense, is one who is keenly aware of the causes underlying the course of events in his business. The farmer, in this case, is in the same class, and success in life, in a broad sense, is connected with this conscious analysis of the basis for success or failure. Let us give a concrete illustration of how school gardening works in this way. Supposing that we propose to plant some seeds. Instead of the teacher telling exactly how these seeds should be planted, the question is raised as to how they should be planted, or even more specifically, how deep. One boy says one thing, another another. The proper answer is, "Well, go ahead." Let one boy try it in one way and another pupil in another. Why should we come at it in this apparently 5 random fashion? According to the canons of formal education, the teacher should tell the pupil how to plant the seeds, but according to education in the best sense, it is the function of the teacher to show his pupil how to learn for himself. If now the seeds are planted at a half-dozen different depths, here is the real opportunity of the true educator. Moreover, this element of uncertainty puts the pupils on the watch. It introduces a little bit of the spirit of adventure, the willingness to take a certain amount of risk for the sake of finding out, the willingness to lose in order to gain, that is more real success than anything else. It will be seen from what we have said that failure may at times be very much more important than success, in regard to its educational value. In this .very brief discussion, we hope we have made the central thought clear, namely, that the process of doing things can be made of very great educational value and we think, on the whole, more than merely book study of the same things. How School Gardening May Be Made a Part of the Course. Let us see now, briefly, how school gardening may be introduced into the curriculum without imposing an additional burden on the teacher. This is a practical point which will occur at once and must be met. The answer lies in the possibility of bringing school gardening to the aid of the other studies. The experiences and materials may, for example, be used as objects forming the basis of work in English. Instead of taking some object at random and expecting the pupils to write an essay on it, suppose we have objects supplied. to them in which the pupils are vitally interested. It is this interest which forms the spring of good writing. One cannot write vividly about extraneous things which are forced upon the attention. One rather writes vigorously upon the things in which he is interested, into which he has put his effort. Let us see, for example, how much more readily our pupils will write about the germination of seeds than they will about a vase or some other object set up in front of the class as a basis for a composition. Then again, let us take arithmetic. Measurement of one kind or another is the basis for arithmetical work. With this 6 thought in mind, we see at once what an opportunity is afforded by work in gardening. The measurement of plots of ground, calculations of areas, measurement of rate of growth, calculations in regard to quantities of fertilizer to be used, the question of costs entailed by operations on a large scale, and numberless other matters. Instead, therefore, of introducing arbitrary illustrations of examples in arithmetic, if we use examples furnished by our experiences, arithmetic comes at once to mean a very great deal to the pupils. ~c~L~I%/!,- The Development of the Corn Seedling (Drawings by C. S. Ridgeway) 8 What to Do with the Materials Grown in the Garden. Usually many more seed will be planted than may be allowed to grow. Young seedlings should be taken into the school room for a more careful study of their parts with special reference to their behavior during the process of germination. This will afford an excellent opportunity for close observation and for practice in drawing. It is a widely adopted plan, and justifiably so, to have the pupil try to show "how the seedling comes out of the ground" by making a series of drawings at different stages of the seedlings' growth. The figures which are given herewith will give a clear idea of how these drawings should be made. The use of color, either chalk, paraffin crayon or water color will contribute to the effectiveness of Indeed there is no reason why artistic sketches the work. and effects should not be sought for, the purpose being to stimulate the interest of the student. The plants as a whole also furnish abundant material for the study of elementary botany, both that dealing with the more obvious structures and with the behavior. The tendrils of English peas for example may be seen to be modified leaves, and, by attaching small weights, it may be determined the pull they can exert. It is clear that much space could be filled with such examples. Locating the Garden. In a great many cases school garden work is not undertaken because the school grounds are small. It is not necessary however, to have a very large area to do good work. As a matter of fact, some of the most effective work with plants has been done with comparatively small areas. In selecting and locating the ground for the garden, careful attention should be given to convenience and the effect it will have on the landscape and surroundings of the school. The garden should be as accessible as possible and should harmonize with the walks and plantings so as to lend beauty to the school grounds. It is almost useless to attempt school garden work unless the ground is inclosed. A few posts and some wire netting will cost very little and the fence may be built largely by the pupils. This will insure protection from careless persons who :might walk over the plots or prevent a loose animal from destroying the plants. There are two plans in use in school garden work. There may be one general garden where all of the pupils have a -common interest or each pupil may be assigned a small plot ,of ground for an individual garden. Where the area for garden work is small and the teacher has large classes it is probably better to have one general garden. If plenty of land is available and the teacher has time for the work the individual garden is better. The individual plot gives greater opportunity for experiments, encourages a spirit of rivalry and helps to develop the individuality of the pupils. In some cases a combination of the two methods may also be very good. There are certain experiments of general interest which may be carried out in common on larger plots and in addition to this each pupil may have a small area for individual work. This gives an opportunity to test fertilizer mixtures, new crops, and to demonstrate better cultural methods which might be of interest and value to the farmers of the community at large. If the land is not already very fertile ten to twenty loads of barn-yard manure per acre should be evenly distributed over the entire ground. The land should then be deeply and very thoroughly plowed and harrowed until the soil is fine and the surface even. This part of the work cannot be too thoroughly done. Necessary Tools. It will be necessary to have a few tools in common which may be owned by the school if possible. This list should include a wheelbarrow, two or three hand rakes, hoes and shovels. Each pupil may also bring, from home, such additional tools as may be available and may be needed. Seeds and Fertilizers. Small quantities of garden and farm seeds are usually left after planting the garden and crops at home which the parents will glady contribute. From this source and from the regular 10 Congressional distribution of seeds enough seeds to plant the garden may be secured, in most cases. Commercial fertilizers, in small amounts, may also be secured from about the farms. Local fertilizer plants, in a number of cases, will gladly donate samples of several brands of fertilizers to be tested out by the pupils. Ao.Phos. ainit 000.1 No 2 Walk 3 ft. wide . c 19 Ao.Pbos A.Phos. Kainit 0.3.1. Ac.Tho 3- 0.8.1. 10 2 ft. A.Pho5 Zainit C.S.M. 8 Ao.Phos.2BCrn 0.S.M. Ac.Pos C.S.M. 1l Ao.Phos 1 Cotton A Ery Cr I al on2 C.S.Y. 26 Ac *Pho5 lainit fort 3 Ao.Phos. o 0 0.3.1. 17 A.Pho8. Kainit No fort. 14 1 A.Phos. 11 2 ft. Lm C... Kii Lie 1 Crn Oats arly Kainit2BCon fris Ptte Pta C.S.M. Kainit Lime C.S.Y. Kainit Early Stra- Pearl Millet airy Vetch Meadow Grass Orohard Grass Brr Clover Aleike Clover 2 ft. Red Peauts clover Crimson Clover Rape Peas f Barley Uheat Amber sorghu2m Kaffir Corn oat Grass Red Top Grass 57 Timoth White Clover German Millet Chuf ChfNo oyBea Upland ICe Bye 49 Walk 3 ft. wide 60 69 58 56 55 2 ft. 54 53 f 52 51 50 48 47 46 2ft. 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 2 ft. 33 32 31' 30 29 28 2 ft. 27 26 26 24 23 22 21 20 19 2 ft. 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 17 10 9 8 7 Walk 3 ft. wide SOUTH 6643 2 1 Suggested Plan for General and Individual Gardens Combined. The Blank Plot in General Garden should be No. 5 and should have "No Fertiier 12 Planning the Garden. In the plan given on page 11, Figure II, a combination of the general and individual gardens is suggested. In this plan it is contemplated that the south half of the garden, plots numbered from 1 to 60 inclusive, is to be used for individual gardens, each pupil being assigned one plot. The north half is to be devoted to a general garden in which all pupils have a common interest. It will be noticed that the larger crops, fertilizer tests and rotation work are to be reserved for the general garden while the individual garden is to be planted largely to vegetables. In the general garden four plots are to be devoted to early corn. Early Cory, Adams, Country Gentleman and Stowell Evergreen are suggested as varieties of early corn to be planted. One plot should be planted to the Triumph or some other standard variety of Irish potatoes. Lady Thompson or some other well known variety may be used for the strawberry plot. Plots A B and C are to be used in a three-year rotation. The rotation runs from C towards A, that is, cotton followed by corn, corn followed by oats, and then cotton again. In September some winter cover crop may be planted between the cotton rows, the seed being sowed broadcast and lightly covered. Hairy vetch, crimson clover, or one of the small grains may be used as a cover crop. At the last cultivation of the corn, cowpeas should be planted in the middles. The oats should be planted in the early fall and after they mature in May or June they should be followed by cowpeas, peanuts, or soy beans. Fertilizer Test with Different Crops. Plots numbered 1 to 27 inclusive in the general garden areto be used as a fertilizer test, using the fertilizer or the fertilizer mixture indicated on the plots. Plots 1 to 9 inclusive are to be planted to fall oats or wheat, 10 to 18 to cotton and 19 to 27 to corn. Each series of 9 plots comprise a complete fertilizer test with all of the combinations of nitrogen, phosphorus, potash, and lime and in each series there is a check plot where no fertilizer is to be used. The amounts of thesevarious fertilizers are indicated in the following tabulation: 13 FIGURE III. The Development of the English Pea (Drawings by C. S. Ridgeway) 14 Plot Kind Fertilizer Amt. per acre I-- Cotton Seed Meal Acid Phosphate 3- Kainit _Cotton Seed Meal 5 Acid Phosphate - No fertilizer Cotton Seed Meal Kainit - - 200 lbs. -- _ -- -_ 2401bs. ---- 200 lbs.--_ .200 lbs. 240 lbs. Crop -Oats _Oats Oats Oats _Oats -- .- - -200 200 ---240 __ -200 -- -- 200 _ -240 lbs. lbs. 3 -- -.- Oats Acid Phosphate Kainit_____ Cotton Seed Meal Acid Phosphate Kainit_-_ Seed Meal 10_ 11 _ Acid Phosphate 12_ Kainit_ 13{ Cotton Seed MealAcid Phosphate fertilizer 14_ Cotton Seed Meal 15 Kainit__ _ Acid Phosphate 161{ 9_ Le---Cotton __--_--2000 S 240 lbs. lbs. 3 lbs.) lbs. lbs. Oats ---- Oats ____ --- 200 lbs. -200 lbs.-- .__ _Cotton ____2_Oats - Cotton _Cotton. Cotton Cotton -- Cotton .__Cotton -240 lbs.-___200 lbs.--200 lbs. lbs.3 { -No _. - -200 lbs. --- 200 lbs. 240 lbs. lbs. Kainit =__---,200 Cotton Seed Meal Acid Phosphate__-_-_ _ -200 lbs. Kainit__ _ _ _ ___ _200lbs. Lime__ -.___--_2000 lbs. Cotton Seed Meal 240 - Acid Phosphate -_- -200 lbs. 202 Kainit Cotton Seed Meal Acid Phosphate--- - 200 lbs.~ ---- 200 lbs.j 23- No fertilizer ___ 240 lbs. - 24{ Cotton Seed Meal lbs. -- -_Cotton Cotton _ - __ -Corn - --Corn -Corn _-Corn -Corn -C .Corn or KntAcid PhosphateKainitK ainit___ - 25 - --- 26 27 - Cotton Seed Meal Acid Phosphate... _._ - _ 240 lbs. _ lbs. ..-- 200 lbs. j - 200 lbs.J - ---- Corn 200 lbs.) _---2000 Lime_- .- The remaining plots in the general garden are to be devoted to sting forage and soil improving ciops as indicated on the plot. 15 The Individual Garden. Figure IV. the individual and the rows as to get as on page 16 suggests how each pupil may arrange garden. The plots should extend east and west of vegetables should extend north and south so much sunshine as possible. It is suggested in Figure IV. that the rows may be made two feet apart. The width of the rows, however, should be governed by the planting table on page 20. In plots as small as these, 5 x 10 feet, it will be impossible to grow more than five to six rows. Each pupil may grow five or six different kinds of vegetables, growing a single row of each vegetable. In this case the teacher should encourage the pupils to vary the lists so as many varieties of vegetables as possible may be growing in the school garden. Another method which might also be used to advantage would be for pupil A to plant all of his or her plot to English peas, pupil B to beans, pupil C to beets and so on, having each individual plot growing a single vegetable but different from the other plots. NORTH I I I I Iln Sugse o Indvda Pot 17 The Home Garden. A very valuable and practical line of gardening work for the teacher in connection with the school work, is the home garden. In this case the pupils receive their instructions and directions for the work in the school room, and grow the plants at their homes. This line of work has many very valuable features. The pupil, doing the work at his home, will cause the parents to take more interest in the work. It connects the home with the school and enables the teacher to get in closer touch with the home. Frequently the garden work is started on the school grounds, but not completed before school is out. In this case there is no one to look after the plants, and a valuable part of the work and the results are lost. Where the garden work is done at home, it is an easier matter to get the pupil to carry the work through to completion. Where the home garden idea is undertaken, each pupil should be requested to grow a definite area of whatever vegetable or crop may be selected. In assigning vegetables or crops to several pupils, each may be assigned a separate vegetable or crop, so that several lines may be carried on at the same time. As the work progresses, specimens of plants may be brought from the home gardens to the school room to be used in class room study. Each pupil should be urged to keep an accurate record of all the steps in growing his plants. The history of the crop may be written in booklet form, and this booklet exhibited at the school in connection with the exhibit of crops or vegetables. 18 PLANTING TABLE FOR CROPS ARRANGED BY SEASONS FOR SPRING PLANTING 3 0 TIME GOPvTOPLANT a0 O T N FERTILIZER o METHOD OF PLANTING ~ ~ Chufas-----April 1 to May 1 24 Feb. 15 to May 30 24 Corn. Cotton April 15 to May 15 24 Kaffir Corn _ April 15 to May30 24 Oats.eb.. 1 to Mch. 20 6 to 8 Peanuts- ____May 1 to June 30 24 PeasM-------- May 1 to July 10 24 Rape Mar. 1 to May 30 24 Rice Upland- Mar 1 to May 30 6 to 8 Sorghtum -_ April 1 to June 30 24 Soy BeansApril 1 to June 30 24 ----------- 2 On Level 2 to 3 1 bu. 10-3-2 500 12 8 to 10 qts. 10-3-2 500 2 to 3 On level or water fur. 18 3 to 4 pks. 10-3-3 500 2 On Low Level 12 2 pks. 10-3-2 500 ito 2 On Level 1 to 2 2 bu. 1032 400 ro2Open Furrow 8 to 12 1 to 2 bt. * 10-1-2 400 2 On Level 6 to 8 3 pks. 10-12 400 2 On level or low bed 3 to 4 4 to 6 lbs. 1032 400 1 i to 2 80 lbs. 10-3-2 501) 2 On Level 2 to 3 1 1-2 ho.t0-4--2 500 2 On level or low bed 2 to 3 2 pkstO-1-2 400 2 On level or low bed OnEevel FOR SUMMER PLANTING 3 pks. Millet Germ. June 1 to July 15 6 to 8 1 to 2 Feanuts -__ May tn June 30 24 8 tol12 1 to 2 bu. * .___ Mav 1toJulyl10 24 6 to 8 3 pks. Peas Sorghum __ April 1 to June 30 24 2 to 3 1 1-2 ho. Soy Beaus_. Aprillto June 30 24 2tou3 2 pks. 10-3-2 10-1-2 101-2 10-4-2 101-2 400 400 400 500 400 1 to 2 Open Furrows 2 On Level 1 On Level 2 On levei or low bed 2 On level orluow bed FOR FALL PLANTING Sept. Sept. Sept. Sent. Sept. Sept. Sept, Sept. Out Grass--__ Oats . Sept. Otch. Grass- Sept. Rape _Sept. RedTopGrass Sept. Sept. RTimothySept. Vetch, Hairy. Sept. Wheat -__ Sept. Burley--Cloveralsike ButtCrimson Red White Mead. Grass. *Unhulled 120 lbs. cleaned: 36 lbs. in burr. 1 to Oct. 1 to Oct. 1 to Oct, 1 to Oct. 1 to Oct. 1 to Oct. 15 toO ct. 1 to Oct. 1 to Nov. 1 to Oct. 20 to Oct. 1 to Oct. 1 to Nov. 1 to Oct. 1 to Oct. 1 to Oct. 15 1 1 1 1 1 15 15 1 15 15 15 1 1 1 1 12 to 10 to 12 to 12 to 12 6 to 8 6 to 8 6 to 8 4 to 8 6 to 8 24 6 to 8 6 to 8 6 to 8 12 6 to 8 1 to2 1 1-2 bu. 10-3-2 1 to2 20 lbs. 10-1-2 2 to 3 20-36 lbs.1 10-1-2 to2 20 lbs. 1 10-1-2 1 to2 10-1-2 20 lbs. 1 to2 to 20 lbs 10-1-2 30 lbs. 10-4-2 1 to2 1 to2 10-4-2 40 lbs. 1 to2 10-3-2 2 ho. 1 to2 35 lbs. 10-4-2 3 to 4 4 to 6 lbs. 10-3-2 30 lbs. 10-4-2 1 to 1 ho. 10-3-2 1 to 2 20 lbs. 10-4-2 10-1-2 1 to 2 40 lbs. 1o 2 1 ho. 10-3-2 1 to 8 8 8 8 15 500 400 400 400 400 400 500 500 400 500 400 500 500 500 400 500 Open Furrows 2 On Level 1 to 2 On Level On Level On Level 1 On Level Open Furrows 1 to 2 Open Furrows 1 to 2 1 to 2 Open Furrows Open Furrows On Level 1 to 2 Open Furrows 2 Open Furrows 1 to 2 Open Furross 1 to 2 Open Furrows 2 Open Furrows 19 To make 10-3-2 fertilizer mixture on the ton basis use: Acid phosphate (16%) 1250 pounds Nitrate of soda (15%) 320 pounds Muriate (or sulphate) of potash 80 pounds Filler ------------- 350 pounbs Total2 ponnds To make a 10-1-2 fertilizer mixture on the ton basis use: Acid phosphate (16) -1 _250pounds Nitrate of soda (15%) _114 pouuds Muriate (or sulphate) of potash -80 pounds Filler ___-._556 pounds Total_-2000 pounds To make a 10-3-3 fertilizer mixture on the ton basis use: Acid phosphate (16%) 11250 Nitrate of soda (15/) 320 Muriate (or sulphate) of potash 1120 Filler-310 Total-2000 To make a 10-4-2 fertilizer mixture on the ton basis use: Acid phosphate (16/)Nitrate of soda pounds pounds pounds pounds pounds (15%,) 1250 - - - pounds 442 pounds Muriate (or sulphate) of potashL Filler -- - - - - - - - -. -2000 80 pounds - - - - - - 228 pounds -- Total pounds To make these fertilizer mixtures up to the different compositions it would be necessary to add "filler" as indicated in each case. However, when they are mixed in small quantities for garden use they should be mixed in the proportious given and the "filler" may be left out. 20 PLANTING TABLE FOR VEGETABLES 01) s~0 o TIME TO PLAET ,ac o, ar o da W soa ~cr < FERTILIZER METH7DOF PLANTING ' °'' 0H0 Beans. _ __- March 15 to May 1 Beets February- March Cabbage_-__Oct., Mar. to May ,Canliflower February, in doors Eng. Peas _ Jan. and February Kol Rabi_ Febtuary. in doors Lettuce Dec. and January October-March Onions_ Marcb Pepper___ PotatoesIrish Jan.-Feb. to Apr. Jan. and February Radish March to April Tomatoes Jan.-Feb. indoors Turnips - -_ September-March Squash --- 20 10 4 10-20 30 18l 30 15 30 1 to 2 20 10 18 6 4 15-18 18 16-20 36 12 10-20 2 to 4 36 15 36 24 6 10-20 10-2-4 500 1 f 1 peck 5-6 lbs. 7-6-9 560 1 1 r /'4 1b. 7-6-9 500 2 /1lb. 7-6-9 500 12 1-2 bn. 10-2-4 500 1-2 7-6-9 tOO0 12 12 lb. 12 .7-4-8 500 5-6 lbs. 7-4-8 900 t-? __7-4-8 500 3 ___ 3 8---1 bus. 7-4-8 600 8-10 lbs. 7-4-8 n5o0 12 1 - 74-8 500 4 oz. 7-4-8 500 14 2-4 lbs. 7-6-9 500 1 In drills In drills In beds to transplant It drills In drills In drills 1 oz for 2000 plants Int drills In drills In deep furrows In drills In furrows To transplant In drills Credit is due Prof. J. C. C. Price lot suggestions on above table. The Development of the Cowpea Seedling (Drawings by C. S. Ridgeway) 22 To make a 7-6-9 fertilizer mixture on the ton basis use: 875 pounds Acid phosphate (16%) 660 pounds. Nitrate of soda (15,%) 360 pounds Muriate (of sulphate) of potash Filler .. 105 pounds. -- Total ----- 2000 pounds. To make a 7-4-8 fertilizer mixture on the ton basis use: 875 pounds Acid phosphate (16%) 442 pounds -Nitrate of soda (15%) 320 pounds. Muriate (or sulqhate) of potash Filler Total -..-. -- 363 pounds . 2000 pounds To make a 10-2-4 fertilizer mixture on the ton basis use: 1250 Acid phosphate (16r) 220 Nitrate of soda (15%) --.. 160 (or sulphate) of potash Muriate 370 Filler --------------_---2000 Total ----------------- poundsponnds. pounds pounds pounds To make these fertilizer mixtures up to the different compositions it would be necessary to add "filler" as indicated in each case. However, when they are mixed in small quantities for garden use they should be mixed in the proportions given and the "filler" may be left out. Muriate or sulphate of potash, either, may be used except in the case of potatoes and tomatoes. Use the sulphate with these two vegetables. 23 Flowers. I think it well to always plant some flowers in connection with the school garden. A few plots may be devoted exclusively in the general garden, to the growing of a few common flowers. If no plots are available for this work, quite a number of flowers may be grown on the borders, along the walks, and about the school grounds. Girls frequently take a great deal of interest in the growing of flowers, and this work may be done largely by them. Below I am suggesting a few flowers, which may be easily grown, with a few notes or directions, in each case. This list may be varied and largely extended at the discretion and taste of the teachers and pupils. Ageratum: This is an annual which may be planted in August for winter flowering, or may be sown indoors in boxes, or in a cold frame in early spring, and later planted out. It grows from 12 to 18 inches tall and will bloom in Apil and May. Alyssum: For fall flowers, sow in August, for spring flowers, sow in April. The plants should be left 3 to 4 inches apart. This is a good plant for borders, pots and baskets. After it blooms cut back, and it will flower again. It will flower most of the summer. Balsam: Fhis is an annual plant, which may be sown in March or April. The plants should be left 3 or 4 inches apart. It will grow 15 to 18 inches tall, and will bloom from May through the summer. Transplanting several times will dwarf the plants and make them shape up welL Calendula: This is an annual plant, which may be planted in March. The plants should be left about 6 inches: apart. It will grow about 12 inches tall, and will bloont from May through the summer. I Candytuft : This is an annual which may be planted in October and November. Plants should be left about 6 inches apart. It will grow 6 to 12 inches tall, and will bloom from about May 15th for about four weeks. Chrysanthemums: Plant in May, 18 to 24 inches apart. Plants will grow from 2 to 5 feet tall, and will bloom in October and November. 24 Coreopsis: This is an annual and should be planted about March. The plants should stand 4 to 6 inches apart. The plants will grow 12 to 18 inches tall, and will bloom from May 15th all summer. Cosmos: This is an annual plant which may be planted in March and April. The plants should be left 1 1-2 to 3 feet apart. The plants will grow 4 to 5 feet tall, and will bloom in September and October. Forget-Me-Not: This may be planted in March. It will grow about 6 inches tall and will bloom in the early spring. Hollyhock: Seed in August 2 to 3 feet apart. The plants will grow 3 to 7 feet tall and will bloom in May. Nasturtium: Plant in February, 4 to 6 inches apart. The dwarf will grow 6 inches tall and the climbing 8 to 10 feet tall. It will bloom in May, and then all suminer. Poppy : Sow thinly in May and allow plants to stand 1 foot apart. They will grow 2 to 4 feet tall. Portulacca: Plant about 2 feet tipart each way. It will grow about 6 inches tall. Sweet Peas : These plants do best in rich damp soil. Dig a trench 1 1-2 feet deep and fill with rich loam. Leave the plants six inches apart. Plant in the early spring or in the fall. Verbena : Sow in March or April and leave plants 2 or 3 feet apart. These plants will bloom in the early summer and on until frost. 25 Hot Bed. In some cases where it is desirable to start some of the tender plants before the warm spring weather opens up, it may be necessary to plant the seed either in boxes so that they may be kept indoors and in warm windows, or else in a hot bed. Location: The hot bed should be located on a rather elevated, well drained piece of soil and should be protected, if possible, from the northern exposure by a wind break such as a fence or a building. It should slope to the south or to the southeast. The frame: Rather strong posts should be put down at each corner of the hot bed. Most any ordinary lumber may be used to case up the ends and sides of the frame. The north side, or the rear of the hot bed should be ten to twelve inches high with the soil banked up to carry the water away. The south side or front should be six to eight inches high. In most cases it will not be necessary to use glass as a good strong piece of cloth, such as canvas will be all that is necessary for a cover on cold days. This canvas should be arranged to roll up so that the plants may be sunned on warm sunshiny days. The pit : In most cases it is best to dig a pit inside of the frame, a few inches smaller all around than the frame. This pit should be eighteen to twenty-four inches deep. Filling the pit : On the bottom of the pit there should be placed a layer of some coarse, non-conducting material such as leaves or leaf mould to prevent the manure from coming in direct contact with the cold ground in the bottom of the pit. This layer should be two to three inches deep. Fresh, rich manure should be placed on this to a depth of twelve to eighteen inches. This manure should come directly from the barn where it has not been exposed. It is better to have manure that is free or almost free of straw or other bedding. If the manure is very dry it should be moistened as it is placed in the pit. This manure should be placed in the pit in layers two to four inches thick and each layer carefully packed before the next layer is put in. 26 FIGURE VI. Cross Section of Hot Bed Looking Down on Cold Frame or Hot Bed 27 Each day the temperature should be noted, the manure well mixed, packed and watered down. As soon as the manure is placed in position it will begin to rapidly ferment and generate a considerable amount of heat. On top of the manure should be a layer about two inches thick of leaf mould so that the warmth arising from the manure will be evenly distributed over the entire surface. On top of this layer of leaf mould should be placed four to five inches of one part leaf mould and two parts of good, rich garden soil in which to plant the seeds. Planting: In two or three days the temperature will drop below ninety degrees and then such plants as require a very warm temperature should be planted. When the temperature reaches seventy to eighty degrees the cooler plants may be planted. This top soil should be well mixed and finely pulverized before the seeds are planted. In stirring this soil it is important not to go deeper than the layer of planting soil as it would not be desirable to mix up the top layer of leaf mould or manure with the surface planting soil. All seeds may be planted in rows a few inches apart and as the plants begin to grow they may be thinned so as to get strong, healthy plants in all cases. When it is necessary to water the plants in the hot bed it is better to thoroughly wet the soil occasionally than to frequently apply small quantities of water. Transplant from the hot bed to the open field when the plants are large enough and when the temperature will permit. Cold Frame. A cold frame respects as the Make the frame rich garden soil manure. may be made in the same manner in all hot bed, except there is no bottom heat. and the canvas for cover and put in the for planting but leave off the pit and the