ALABAMA
Agricultural Experiment
Station
OF THE
Alabama Polytechnic Institute
AUBURN
VEGETABLE GROWING IN ALABAMA
CIRCULAR NO. 14
March, 1912
Part IL
BY
P. F. WILLIAMS
AND
H. M. CONOLLY
Opelika, Ala.
Post Publishing Company
1912
'COMMITTEFE OF TRUSTEES ON EXPERIMENT STATION.
I.lTON. R. F. OLB ......................................... Montgomery
ICN. H. L. MARTIN...........................................Ozark
-HON. A. V. BELL............................................Anniston
STATION STAFF.
C. C. THACH..............................President of the College
J F. DUGGAR ............................ Director 
and Agriculturist
13. B. Ross.............................Chemist and State Chemist
-C. A. GARY............. Veterinarian and Director Farmers' Institutes
J. T. ANDERSON.................. Chemist, Soil 
and Crop Investigation
DAN T. GRAY ................................... Animal Industry
"T. E. HINDS......................................Entomologist
F. E. LLOYD............................................Botanist
P. F. WILLIAMS ................................... Horticulturist
PC. L. HARE............................................Chemist
I. N. DUNCAN*....................Superintendent 
of Extenion Work
F. A. VoLF................. .................... Plant Pathologist
T BRAGG....................................First Assistant Chemist
E. F. CAUTHEN................ Associate Agriculturist and Recorder
WV. F. WARD..............................Junior Animal Husbandman
I. S. MCADORY.......................Assistant in Veterinary Science
W. F. TURNER...............................Assistant in Entomology
M. J. FLuNCHESS .......................... Assistant Agriculturist
J. B. HOBDY ............................. Assistant in Extension Work
C. S. RIDGWAY................................. Assistant in Botany
J C. C. PRICE........................ .... Assistant in Hor ticultu're
L. WV. SHOOK........................ Assistant in Animal Industry
E. R. EUDALY*................ Assistant in Beef and Swine Industry
J. T. WILLIAMSON ....................... Field Agent in Agriculture
L. L. GLOVER........................... Field Agent in Agriculture
H. M. CONOLLY ....................... Field Assistant in Horticulture
0 H. SELLARS................................ Secretary to Director
J. COHEN................................... Assistant in Chemistry
J. A. DEW ........................ Field Assistant in Entomology
L. W. SUMMERS ....................... Assistant in Animal li dustry
S. S. JERDAN*.............................. Assistant in Beef Industry
A. R. GISSENDANNER..................... Assistant in Swine Hushandry
C. D. ALLIS...................................... Assistant in Poultry-
*'In Co-operation with U. S. Department of Agriculture.
SUGGESTIVE PLAN FOR A HOME GARDEN.
Crav pe s
R4ed 9pt erro'es 924sc RaRspderes
Sta - ra 0 res O
* - . 3~wSA .Waterm'eroez
Cant tozwxes Ct.cz.,mL'es -Su-mmer gzuaue
'erySwoeet Corz ?te Sw~eet Cor'n
O~rLaZte S zoecf Cor'n
Pepper,3 4'yy/'2a~zt a elwe
XcAI .Pali Tom atoes
L -nA 8ea-nzs Snap Beans -
Iro at P ota-toes
fr'i$At Po-ta
t
oes
/p:z.4 Pot't toes
A ea-s CaabbtoLe
____________seets hettip e
Pa~S a 'O 0 'nBee2t s.eA'r
Radish 7- Uni/a B v aln et eye
Amton
v z vo/i
FALL GARDEN
Scal~e /t'n. = ot
Plo?A-heoprng 
ardn.Plo 
B paemfrlte 
allGaren
A21 _ n$
a
M
74
M
1 4c- 47 C-. ^.
>w-eet ozc Toes
L
Plot A--The Spring Garden. Plot B---Space for the Fall Garden.
CONTENTS.
A rtich ok es --- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- -- -- ---- ----- ----- -- --- 66
B eets - - - -- - -- - -- -- - - -- - - - - - - - - 67
Borecole-- -- -- - -- -- 68
B roccoli - - -- - - - - -- - --- ____ _68
Brussels Sprouts ---- - --- - - - - - - - - - - - - 68
C anning -------------- ------ 75
Carrot - - - - - - - -- 68
Cauliflower 68
C elery - -- --- -- - - -- - ---- - - - - -- 69
Celeriac -69
Corn (Sweet) (Salad) -69
Conposts and Fertilizers____ ____
C ress-- - ---- -------------------- 70
Dandelion - - - - -_-- 70
Diseases and Insects____-__ 78-80
E ggplant -------------- -- - - - = -- - --- _70
Endive -70
G a rlic - -- -- - -- - - -- -- - -- -- -- - - - - - - - - - 7 1
Horse Radish -- -- - - - - - - - - - - 71
Kale -71
K ohl-R abi --------- - - -- ---- - ------- ---- 71
Leek ---- 7---------- - - --- - - -- 1
M ustard --------------------------------- --- - 72
O kra - -------- 72--- - --- - - - - - - -
Parsley 
72
P arsnip ------- - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 72
Pumpkin -- 72
R adish - - - - -- - -- -- - - - - - -- - 73
S a ls if y --- - - - - - -- - 73
Seeds and Seed Selection 6
Spinach - -- - - - - - -- - - - 73
Squash - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 73
Storage - - -- - - -_ _ - - - -- - - - 74-75
Swiss Chard - - - - - - - - - - - -- -73
T urnip --- - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - _ _73
ILLUSTR ATIO NS.
Fig. 1. Suggestive Plan for a Home Giarden--------- Frontispiece
Fig. 2. PlantingTal - - 81-83
Plate 1. Home Canning Outfit in Operation --------- ------ 76
THE HOME GARDEN
A vegetable garden should be found in connection
with every farm as well as city home in the South.
Though the space devoted to gardening may be small
it may be made to produce a wonderful amount of fresh
vegetables, and if rightly arranged will produce some-
thing nearly the year round.
The cost for establishing a garden is very low and the
labor involved will not be burdensome if the garden is
rightly planned.
A town garden is a great aid to the housewife in lower-
ing the cost of living, for fresh vegetables nearly every
clay the year round can be had at a fraction of the store
prices.
A home garden for the farm is an absolute necessity
and the sooner a farmer establishes a successful garden
the sooner will his profits increase, for the garden can
be made to supply a great share of his living.
The crops grown in the garden will depend in a great
measure on the tastes of the owner. If the garden is
large, nearly every crop can be grown, and in sufficient
quantities for the family needs, but if the garden is small
only the crops requiring little room and that mature
quickly should be planted. In a garden of small size
it would hardly pay to raise potatoes as these could be
purchased readily, or to raise pumpkins as they require
too much space that could be used to better advantage by
radish, lettuce, peas, beans, parsley, etc.
The home garden should be located near the house,
and on well drained land. If the land is heavy or 
wet,
it should be tiled to loosen up the soil and drain off excess
water.
On a farm or in town there are usually chickens to
contend with, therefore the garden should be enclosed
with a good poultry wire fence. If possible it is a 
good
plan tohavfe thb gairdein l arge enoughi so that one half
64
can be put in cover crops to build up the soil while
the other half is in vegetables.
A good system is illustrated on the frontispiece. In
this plan the small fruits and asparagus are placed to
one side of the garden where they will not be disturbed
and the rest is divided into the Spring and Fall garden.
Plot A. This should be in vegetables in the spring,
while in the fall when crops are harvested it is disced
and sowed with oats or burr clover and left till next
spring, when it is again plowed and planted with cow-
peas. In late summer it can be plowed and planted for
fall and winter crops.
Plot B.-This will be in vegetables in the fall and the
next spring. Then the next fall it is plowed and rotation
followed as for Plot A.
If the garden plot is started the spring of 1912, the
rotation will be; Plot A in vegetables the spring 
of 1912,
fall 1913, spring 1914, fall 1915. Plot B will be in 
vege-
tables, fall 1912, spring 1913, fall 1914, spring 1915.
In arranging the crops in the garden have them 
in
rows. Run the rows the long way of the 
garden and have
wide spaces between rows if horse cultivation 
is to be
used as this saves much time and trouble.
It is a good plan to have the vine 
crops by themselves
and the early crops by themselves as this gives more op-
portunity for inter planting and succession 
crops.
COLD FRAMES AND HOT BEDS.
These are a wonderful aid to the gardener, 
for by their
-
use many crops can be prolonged 
several weeks in the
fall and hastened a month or 
six weeks in the spring.
Many crops, as lettuce, radish, 
cauliflower, celery, etc.,
can be grown in frames during 
the winter when there-
is little chance to take anything 
from the garden.
For a full description of the 
cold frames and hot beds.
see Part I, Circular 14.
COMPOST AND FERTILIZER.
No one should attempt to 
run a home garden without
making a compost heap. 
Good rich compost is very
65
useful for the cold frames, hotbeds, and as a dressing to
give quick available plant food. To make a compost
heap, the following points are useful:
In an out-of-way corner but close to the cold frames
and hotbeds, put down a layer of earth, then on this, a
layer of manure and then more soil and manure. On
this pile can be put all decayed vegetable and animal
matter that is available. The whole pile should be
turned over two or three times during the season and
when well rotted and mixed it is ready for use. Always
have a new heap in process of making.
Commercial fertilizers never take the place of manures
and humus in the soil; they are only useful as an aid
in increasing crops grown. The richer and better the
condition of the soil, the better will be the results ob-
tained from fertilizers used. Plowing under green man-
ure crops, as clover, oats, rye, cowpeas, velvet beans, etc.,
will add humus and plant food to the soil.
For ordinary garden purposes a good general fertilizer
analyzing about 7-5-8, plowed or disced in, would be
useful, while top dressings of Nitrate of Soda may be
applied where quick growth is desired at certain periods.
SEED AND SEED SELECTION.
Good seed is one of the principal things required in the
vegetable garden. Only a small amount of seed is used
of each vegetable which makes it doubly important to
have this seed pure to assure good stands. To be sure
of good seed buy only of reliable dealers and don't buy
seed because it is cheap in price. The best seed obtain-
able is none too good.
It would be a good plan for each person to select his.
own seed to a certain extent and thus obtain strains that
are acclimated to the South. A person can easily save.
seed of such vegetables as cucumbers, melons, squash,
pumpkins, peas, sweet corn, okra, potatoes (Irish), pota-
toes (sweet) and tomatoes, and with a little care in tak-
ing up plants in the fall, storing and planting again in
the spring, seed from the following can be saved: cab-
66
bage, radish, turnips, beets, parsnip, carrots, celery and
lettuce.
In saving seed it is well to follow a few definite points
as the following:
1. Select plants from among your crops while they are
growing.
2. Select plants that most nearly fill required needs of
this vegetable.
3. Take the whole plant when considering such points
as vigor, earliness or lateness, fruit bearing qualities, etc.
4. It may not be as well to select seeds from plants that
produce one or two large fruits as from plants that pro-
duce a large number of medium sized fruits.
5. Resistance to disease, drought, etc., should be taken
into account.
6. Stake plants selected and when mature, harvest 
the
seed. Good seed is always in demand among your neigh-
bors, therefore it will do no harm to save 
a little more
seed than you require yourself.
Artichoke (Jerusalem).-This crop is 
similar in cul-
ture to the potato. The tubers are planted in 
early spring
in rows four feet apart and 12 to 18 inches 
in the row.
Yields run as high as 500 bushels per ecre. Varieties
are Red and White.
Artichoke (Globe).-This is a form of artichoke 
grown
for the large flower heads. The seed may 
be sown in the
cold frame in early spring and the plants set 
later in the
open ground, or seed may be sown in spring 
in the open.
If sown in the open, plant in hills four 
feet by two feet.
This plant is a heavy feeder and to get large 
flower heads
the ground should be well enriched.
Asparagus. For full details of culture 
see Part I, Cir-
cular No. 14.
Beans (Bush).-No garden should 
be without a con-
tinuous supply of bush (snap, string) 
beans. They may
be planted in drills as soon as frost 
is past and some-
times you can risk planting early if protection 
is given.
Seed is sown about 4 to 5 inches 
apart along the row
and covered from 11 to 2 inches. Cultivation 
should
67
be given as soon as plants break the ground. A very
hardy early bean is the Refugee, and following this are:
Valentine, Black Wax and Stringless Green Pod. Suc-
cession crops can be planted until Summer, and again
crops can be planted in late summer for fall use and for
canning. See Part I, Circular No. 14 for commercial
growing of snap beans.
Beans (Pole).-The culture for these beans is similar
to that for snap beans with the exception that they need
poles or wire for support. They last over a longer period
than the bush varieties and therefore make a good addi-
tion to the home garden.
Varieties recommended are lentucky Wonder, Old
Homestead and Lazy Wife.
Beans (Lima).-This is a favorite vegetable to the
Southerner and is often called butter bean. There are
two forms of the lima; the bush lima and the pole lima.
Bush limas are planted in drills 4 feet apart and the
beans 8 or 10 inches along the row. The Pole varieties
are planted in hills 4 feet one way and 2 to 3 feet the
other.
Limas should not be planted until the soil has warmed
up and the weather is settled, for the seed rot easily if it
is damp and cold.
These beans may be harvested when green or left to
ripen and shelled as dry beans for winter use. When
ripe beans are picked, they should be spread out in a thin
layer in some dry, well ventilated room where they will
thoroughly dry, then they may be threshed with a flail
and sacked for future use.
Beets. This is one of the important root crops and
should be in every home garden. The seed of some of
the quick maturing varieties as Eclipse, Crosby's Early
Egyptian and Detroit Dark Red may be planted in very
early spring and they will be ready to use in about 3
months. For late crops, for storing and pickling, some
of the slower maturing varieties, as Arlington Favorite
Blood, Edmond's Blood Turnip and Long Dark Blood
may be planted in late May and June.
68
The seed is sown in drills 18 inches apart and covered
about 1 inch. A good plan is to soak the seed over night
before planting as they will germinate more readily.
Borecole. Kale is another name to give this vegetable
and for culture see Kale.
Broccoli.-This vegetable resembles cauliflower but
differs from it in having larger leaves which are curled,
a larger head and different colored varieties. Broccoli
is easier to raise than cauliflower but the culture is the
same. White Cape is the best variety to raise. Where
cauliflower can be raised broccoli can be discarded.
Brussels Sprouts.-This is one of the cabbage family
which is cultivated for the small buds or heads along the
central stem. The plants are set in rows two feet apart
and 18 inches in the row. The culture is the same as
for late cabbage.
Cabbage.-Full details for Commercial Cabbage grow-
ing are given in Part I, Circular No. 14.
Carrots.This is a vegetable that needs to be used
some time to be appreciated, but should find a place in
every garden where a succulent root is desired for winter
use. The carrot is very similar in culture to the beet
and is planted at the same time as an early and a late
crop.
Varieties recommended are Danver's Half Long Orange
and Early Half Long Scarlet.
Cantaloupe (Muskmelons).-For details for culture see
Part I, Circular No. 14.
Cauliflower.--This is a vegetable that delights in a
cool moist climate, but can be raised in the garden with
some care. The seed should be sown in early February
in the hot bed or in flats placed in the house . When the
plants are an inch or two in heighth they are transplanted
to the cold frames or placed in 21/2 inch pots. When
all danger of frost is over the plants may be set in the
open ground. The heads of the cauliflower need to be
.bleached and this is usually done by drawing the leaves
over the head and tying.
For early spring cauliflower the seed is sown 
in the
69
cold frames in early fall and plants thinned to 10 
or 12
inches apart. The bed is protected by glass 
sash or mus-
lin and where the winter is not severe the cauliflower
will be ready to use along in January or February.
Varieties recommended are Early Snowball 
and Early
Dwarf Erfurt.
Celery.-Celery will not stand the 
hot dry summers of
the South, therefore instead of spring 
planting we must
plant in late summer and fall. 
A special seed bed of well
rotted compost and sandy soil should 
be made and in this
sow the seed in August or September 
and keep the bed
watered and shaded. When plants 
are three inches
high cut off one-third of the top to make the plants hardy.
When plants are three to four inches 
high they may
be set in beds in the open ground. 
If soil is not moist
from rains the plants should 
be watered when set. The
plants do better if set in beds 
with plants 4 inches in the
row and 6 to 8 inches between rows. Protection during
winter may be secured by covering 
with pine straw or
some such litter. In the Northern part 
of Alabama where
the winter is quite severe, the plants 
should have a heavy
coating of litter to protect them. Celery 
can be blanched
with either boards or earth.
Varieties recommended are White Plume, 
Golden Self-
Blanching and Giant Pascal.
Celeriac.-This is a variety 
of celery raised for the
bulbous root instead of the stalks. 
The roots are used
in salads, etc. The cultural 
methods for celery will ap-
ply also to the raising of celeriac.
Corn (Sweet). Sweet corn 
is a very desirable crop to
raise in the garden, for every 
one is fond of roasting
ears. The seed should be planted 
after danger of frost
is passed in hills 2 by 4 feet or 
in drills 4 feet apart and
8 to 12 inches in the drill. 
The seeds should be covered
11/2 to 2 inches deep and as 
soon as the plants break
through the ground cultivation 
should begin. The va-
rieties recommended are Extra 
Early Adams, Country
Gentleman, Stowell's Evergreen 
and Black Mexican.
Corn Salad.-The culture 
of this vegetable is the same
70
as that of spinach. The only variety grown is the Large
Seeded. Three ounces of seed will sow 100 feet of row.
Cress. There are several varieties of cress, some being
grown in the garden as Upland Cress, and others along
the edge of running streams or ditches as water cress.
The seed of the Upland Cress may be sown in the open
ground in early spring in drills 6 to 8 inches apart and
later the plants are thinned to 6 inches apart in the drill.
Successive sowings may be made to have a constant sup-
ply of tender leaves. Water cress demands very little
attention after the plants get a start. The seed is sown
the same as for the Upland Cress.
Cucumber. Full details for commercial cucumber
growing are given in Part I, Circular No. 14.
Dandelion. This plant is a cultivated variety of the
wild form and is used mostly as a pot herb or for greens.
The seed is sown in early spring in drills 2 feet apart
and plants are later thinned to 8 to 12 inches in the row.
The varieties grown are the Broad-leaved and Improved
Thick Neck. One ounce of the seed will sow 100 feet of
drill.
Eggplant. This vegetable is a native of warm 
coun-
tries and grows well in most parts of the State, if given
care in its early stages. The culture is similar to that of
cauliflower and tomatoes. The seed are sown in hotbeds
and plants are set in the open ground when the weather
becomes warm. The plants are set in rows 4 feet apart
and 3 feet in the rows and should preferably be 
set in
the morning when it is cool. The plants can 
be kept
moist by covering them with a wet burlap sack.
Varieties recommended are New York Improved 
Large
Purple, and Early Black Beauty, the 
former being most
generally used.
Endive.- This is 
an excellent salad 
crop and is grown
the same as head lettuce. In the South 
it does better as
a late fall crop than a spring crop. 
The leaves may be
bleached by covering with leaves or 
litter. The Large
Green Curled is the best variety to grow. 
One ounce of
seed,-will plant 300 .feet of drill.
71
Garlic. This is one of the onion family and in general
the culture is the same. The bulbs are planted in the fall
or early spring in rows two feet apart and 3 to 4 inches in
the row. Be sure and set the bulbs with top up and cover
about 2 inches. Garlic is mostly used by people of for-
eign countries and is not well liked by Americans.
Horse-Radish. This vegetable is grown mostly from
cuttings which are made from the small roots of the,
plants. Select clean roots about the size of lead pencils
and cut about 6 inches long. These cuttings are planted
in rows three feet apart and 10 to 12 inches in the row.
Fall planting is advisable in the South. An excellent
variety is the Large Bohemian as it makes very large
roots. Strong plants may be obtained of any reliable
seedsman.
Kale.-This is a hardy plant and the seed can be sown
in either the spring or: fall. The seed is sown in drills
18 inches apart and covered about 1 inch deep. Varie-
ties are Dwarf Curled Scotch and Dwarf Green Curled
German.
Kale is used as greens the same as spinach and dande-
lion.
Kohl-Rabi. The culture for this plant is similar to
that for cauliflower, but it can be planted a little sooner
in the open ground than the latter. Varieties recom-
mended are Early White Vienna, and Earliest Erfurt.
Leek.-The best method for raising leek in the South
is to sow the seed in the fall in frames as for onions, and:
transplant to open ground in February. The culture
would be the same as for onions and crop will be ready
to harvest in late June or July. Scotch Champion and
Large American Flag are the two best varieties to raise.
Lettuce. Lettuce is a very useful crop for any garden
and one easy to cultivate. It may be planted in frames
for winter use and in the open ground for spring and
fall use. Varieties that are good are the following: Big
Boston, Giant Forcing, Improved Hanson, and Black-
seeded Tennisball.
For full cultural directions see Part I, Circular No. 14.
72
Mustard.The mustard requires similar culture to
kale. It can be planted either in the spring or fall. Va-
rieties commonly grown are Giant Southern Curled and
Chinese.
Okra.-This plant is easy to cultivate and thrives in
any rich garden soil. Seed is planted in rows 4 feet
apart and 2 feet apart in the row. Plant the seed in late
March or April. If the pods are not allowed to ripen
on the stalk the plant will continue to bear throughout
the season.
Orion.-The details for onion culture are given in
Part I, Circular 14.
Parsley.-Although parsley is not as hardy as mustard
and kale it can be sown in either the fall or the spring.
If sown in the fall it must receive a covering of straw
to protect the foliage and keep it green. The culture of
parsley is very similar to that required for kale.
Extra Double Curled is the variety recommended.
Parsnip.-This crop needs a long season of growth
and therefore should be planted in the early spring. Sow
the seed in drills 18 inches apart and firm the soil over
the seed. These seeds take a long time to germinate,
therefore it is a good plan to plant radish seed with them
to mark the rows so that cultivation may be given before
the parsnips come up. The culture of parsnips is similar
to that for beets and carrots.
Varieties recommended are Improved Guernsey and
Hollow Crown.
Peas. Full details for culture are given in Part I, Cir-
cular No. 14.
Peppers.-The seed of peppers is sown in frames the
same as eggplant and the culture is very similar to the
latter.
The varieties recommended are Large Bell, Ruby Giant,
Small Chili and Neopolitan.
Pumpkin.-This crop is seldom grown in the home
garden as the plants take up too much space. The seed is
planted in hills 6 feet apart and covered about an inch.
The time for planting is about the same as for corn. The
73
varieties mostly grown are Mammoth and Golden Ca -
shaw.
Potatoes (Irish).-See Part I, Circular No. 14.
Potatoes (Sweet).-See Part I, Circular No. 14.
Radish.-The radish is a very useful crop for the gar-
den and one appreciated by everyone. The culture is
the same as for lettuce. The varieties recommended are:
Icicle, Cardinal Globe, Cincinnati Market and French
Breakfast. Full details for culture are given in Part I,
Circular No. 14.
Spinach.This crop can be planted in either the fall or
spring. The seed is sown thinly in drills and covered
about 1 inch. The culture is the same as for mustard.
The varieties commonly used are Perfection Curled,
Bloomsdale and Curled Savoy.
Salsify.-The same culture is recommended as for
parsnips. Mammoth Sandwich Island is the only va-
riety used.
Squash. For culture see pumpkin. The varieties com-
monly raised are Early White Bush, Yellow Croolmeck,
Golden Custard, and Boston Marrow.
Swiss Chard.-This vegetable is a form of the beet
that is grown exclusively for the leaves which are used
as greens. The seed is planted in early spring and the
culture is the same as that for beets with the exception that
the plants are thinned to 8 or 10 inches in the row.
If leaves are protected in the fall, fresh leaves may be
had all the winter. Giant Lucullus is the best variety to
raise.
Tomato. Full details for culture are given in Part I,
Circular No. 14.
Turnip.--This is a crop that is very easy to raise and
one that can be planted at nearly any time from early
spring until late autumn. The seed may be sown in drills
or broadcasted. Varieties for early crops are White Egg
and Purple Top Globe; for late crops, Purple Strap Leaf,
Purple Top Globe, Yellow Aberdeen and Ruta Baga.
Watermelons. See Part I, Circular No. 14 for full
details for culture and varieties.
74
STORAGE.
While the storage of vegetables for winter
use is not as important in the South as in the North-
still fresh vegetables can be had over a longer period if
storage is practiced.
Different classes of vegetables require different meth-
ods of storage and upon the care in following out these
requirements depends the success in avoiding decay of
the crops stored.
To aid in the right method of storage we have divided
the vegetables that can be stored into six o'roups and give
methods of storage for each group.
Group I. Root crops such as beets, carrots, parsnips,
winter radish, salsify, and turnips should be stored in
a cool moist place with sand around the roots so that
the moisture does not evaporate from them and cause
withering. The tops should be removed from the roots.
before storing as these will decay and cause the roots to
rot.
Pits dug in the ground and covered over with earth
make good places to store roots. Select only a well
drained location, however. A cool cellar will also be
good for the root crops.
Group II.Under this group come squash and pump-
kins. These should be handled very carefully so as
not to bruise the skin, and should be placed in a dry, well
ventilated room. While the roots can be stored in the
cellar the pumpkin and squash should be placed in the
attic.
Group III. .Onions come in this group. Onions should
be dry when taken from the field and stored on racks in
a cool but dry and well ventilated room. If onions are
stored where damp they will sprout and if not ven-
tilated they will decay. A barn or shed makes a good
place for storing onions and if a little heat can be given
when first stored to dry them out thoroughly no trouble
will be found in keeping them.
Group IV.-This group will include Irish potatoes and
cabbage. The requirements are a cool, moist place, but
75
good ventilation. A cellar either under a house or barn,
or a dug-out cellar where ventilation can be secured
serves for the storage of these crops.
Potatoes can even be stored in pits in the ground the
same as the other roots and cabbage can also be buried
with straw or litter around them then earth thrown
over entire pile.
Group V.-Sweet potatoes differ a little from Irish
potatoes as they will keep better if kept dry. The pota-
toes should be harvested soon after frost kills the vines
and preferably when the ground is dry. A good method
of storage is to make a bed on the surface of the ground 4
feet wide and as long as desired. Select a well drained
location for this bed. The bottom of the bed is covered
with straw or litter and the potatoes piled upon it in a
long pile. Over this heap of potatoes is placed a layer of
boards, running the long way of the heap and lapped to
allow water to run off. The two sides of the boards
meet at the top of the pile and the ends of the covering
are left slightly open for ventilation. Supports should
be placed under the boards every 4 feet, otherwise they
will sag and allow the rain and soil to run 
in onto the
potatoes. A layer of earth is heaped over the board
covering and potatoes will be found to keep excellently.
Another method of storage but more expensive is to
erect a house which is frost proof and well ventilated.
In this the potatoes are stored in crates or on racks. 
Care
should be used to keep out the light as light 
causes
potatoes to sprout.
Group VI.-Under this group are celery, parsley, 
etc.
These crops can be stored in any cool place, burying the
roots in boxes of sand. The plants should be watered
once in a while so that they will keep fresh and growth
will not entirely stop.
HOME CANNING.
The canning of vegetables in the home is very impor-
tanut, as it assures a good supply of high quality vegc-
bles at any season of the year. Of course this supply
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77
There are a few points that are important in canning
in tin cans and if these are followed there should sel-
dom be a spoiled can of produce.
1. Be sure to get good quality tin cans for then there
is no danger of their corroding.
2. Have no overripe or decayed products used for can-
ning.
3. Every can should be washed thoroughly before fil-
ling with vegetables.
4. Test every can before cooking to be sure no air holes
are left unsealed.
5. Cook required time to kill all germ life.
6. Cleanliness should be the watchword in every oper-
ation.
A good plan is to have a special home canning
outfit, as these outfits can be purchased at little expense
($6.50 to $25.00) and they will do the work much quick-
er and better than any other Way. A good canning out-
fit should consist of the following:
1. A boiler with a fire box underneath.
2. Soldering irons, (1 tipping iron and I capper).
3. A wire basket for scalding tomatoes, etc.
4. A rack to hold tin cans while cooking.
5. Tongs for lifting the hot cans.
6. Solder, flux and Sal Ammoniac.
7. A fire pot for heating irons.
Put up a cheap shelter to protect operators from the
sun and showers.
Wire solder may be used as it melts quicker and is.
handier than the bar solder.
Flux may be made by dissolving zinc in muriatic acid.
Sal Ammoniac is used to clean and tin the soldering
irons.
The following is a list of the vegetables that are mos[.
often canned:
Tomatoes, snap beans, lima beans, peas, corn, okra,.
beets, asparagus, pumpkin, squash and sweet potatoes.
The profits of home canning can be roughly figured
from the following:
78
One bushel of tomatoes will 
can from 12 to 16 three-
pound cans and these cans if put up correctly will readily
sell at 10 cents a piece. The cost 
will run about 5 cents
per can, thus, 12 cans at 5 cents 
will make one bushel
of tomatoes worth 60 cents. When there is a surplus
of tomatoes on the market and prices are low 
what
better method of getting a good profit could 
be had than
canning ?
A list of companies supplying home canning outfits
follows:
Tharpe Hardware Co., Elkin, N. C.
Slimmer & Sons, Ridgley, Md.
Home Canner Co., Chattanooga, Tenn.
The Raney Canner Co., Chapel Hill, N. C.
Reeves & Son, Collinsville, Ala.
Dixie Hardware Mfg. Co., Elkin, N. C.
The Meridan Farm Canning Machine Co., Meridan,
Miss.
Northwestern Steel & Iron Works, Eau Claire, Wis.
Cans may be secured from the following:
E. F. Kirwin & Co., Baltimore, Md.
American Can Co., Atlanta and Savannah, Ga.
Modern Canner Co., Chattanooga, Tenn.
SOME COMMON INSECTS AND DISEASES OF THE
GARDEN.
ASPARAGUS:
Aspargus beetles eat foliage and lay eggs on the stalks
which spoil their appearance. Dust with pyrethrum
when harvesting. After cutting is over, spray with ar-
senate of lead. When cutting never leave old stalks on
the patch.
Rust forms black and yellow spots on the leaves and
stalks of plants and can be kept down by burning rub-
bish in the fall.
BEANS:
Weevils which are found in dry seed can be destroyed
by fumigating seed with Carbon Bisulphide at time of
storage.
79
Anthracnose which forms brownish-black spots on the
bean pods and stems can be partially controlled by spray-
ing with Bordeaux Mixture when leaves unfold and
repeat again at two week intervals for three sprayings.
The best method is to destroy diseased plants and to se-
lect seed in the fall from plants not diseased.
Rust produces reddish spots on leaves and stems. It
can be controlled by spraying with Bordeaux Mixture
when it first appears and again every week or ten days.
Don't work or pick beans when wet as this seems to
spread the disease.
Mildew comes as a mould on surface of leaves and the
beans. Spray with Bordeaux Mixture when plants are a
foot high and at two week, intervals until danger is over.
CABBAGE, CAULIFLOWER, ETC.:
Cabbage worms can be controlled by spraying or dust-
ing with Arsenate of Lead. If head is forming hellebore is
safer to use.
Club root: Never plant any of the cabbage family on
land infected with club-root. Use about 100 bushels of
lime per acre, to free soil of the disease.
CELERY :
Blight both early and late can be controlled 
by spray-
ing with Bordeaux as soon as plants are established and
repeat every two weeks until three or four 
sprayings have
been given.
CORN:
Corn worms eat kernels of the corn and 
there is no
reliable remedy known. Plowing land 
in the fall and
working it over again in the spring 
seems to aid ma-
terially in keeping the worms down.
CUCUMBERS:
Striped Cucumber Beetles can be kept 
away by keep-
ing plants covered with Bordeaux.
EGG PLANT:
Potato Beetles can be controlled 
by spraying with Ar-
senate of Lead or Paris Green.
Leaf Spot can be controlled by 
spraying plants with
Bordeaux. Begin spraying when 
plants are full estab-
80
fished in field and repeat at 14 to 90 day intervals until
fruits are half grown.
MELONS:
Striped Beetle: Keep plants covered with Bordeaux.
Mildew is controlled by spraying with Bordeaux every
week to 10 days.
Pickle Worm: Plant Squash as a trap crop and kill
insects on this with kerosene. Make two or three plant-
ings of squash at 10 day intervals.
ONIONs :
Blight: Weak Bordeaux (two-thirds strength) every
10 days from time plants are up till harvest. Add sticker
to Bordeaux.
Thrips: Kerosene emulsion or whale oil soap 1 pound
in 5 gallons of water.
Maggot: Pour around base of plants an emulsion of
1 pound of soap, one gallon of boiling water, 
and one
pint of crude carbolic acid. Dilute emulsion 
with 30
parts of water.
POTATO:
Potato Beetle: Spray with Arsenate of Lead..
Blight: Spray with Bordeaux when plants 
are 3 to 4
inches high and continue at 10 day 
intervals until three
sprayings are given.
Scab: Soak uncut seed potatoes for 11/2 hours 
in a so-
lution of one ounce of corrosive sublimate in 8 gallons of
water, or for two hours in solution of 1/2 pint of formalin
in 15 gallons of water.
TOMATO:
Leaf Blight: Small specks or blotches appear 
on leaves
and later enlarge into patches. Control by spraying
plants in bed with Bordeaux Mixture once a week 
and
one or two sprayings after being set in the field.
Wilt: Leaves and stems wither and die, 
caused by
fungus working on the root and base of the 
stalk at the
surface of the ground. Only remedy is to burn 
all
diseased plants and rotate crops.
Tip-Rot: The green fruit rots at blossom end. No renm-
edy has been found. Cannot control by spraying.
For spraying formulas see Part I, Circular 14.
F LANTIN T"FASLE
VEGETABLE
Asparagus
Beans (Bush)
Beans (Lima)--
Cabbage (Late)
Carrots
Cantaloupes-
Caulif lower
Celery --------
Corn (Sweet)
TIME OF PLANTING
Nov. 15 to Dec.
Feb. 15 to Mar.
Mar. 15 to April
Succession Crops
March to April
Jan. 15 to Feb.
June or July
Jan. 15 to Mar. plants
Seed in Dec.
May to July
April to May (seed)
Jan. 15 to Feb.
July
In beds Jan. to Feb.
April to May
April to May
Nov. to Dec.
Mar. to April
VARIETIES
Palmetto, Colossal, Argenteuil
Valentine, Black Wax, Refugee,
Golden Wax, Stringless Green
Pod
Henderson's Bush Lima
Burpee's Bush Lima
Eclipse Early Egyptian,
Detroit Dark Red
Early Jersey Wakefield
Charleston Wakefield
Drumhead, All Head, Flat Dutch
Danver's Half Long Orange,
Early Half Long Scarlet,
Rocky Ford, Aden Gem, Emer-
aid Gem, Hackensack, Jenny
Lind. Osage,
Early Snowball,
Early Dwarf Erfurt,
White Plume, Golden Self
Blanching,
Extra Early Adams, Black Mexi-
can, Stowell's Evergreen,
Country Gentlemen,
DEPTH TO PLANT HILLs OR DRILLS
6 to S in.-
12 in.
2 in.
12 in.
12, in., seed
Plants 2 to 4 in.
Plants 2 to 4 in.
Y2in.
1. in.
Seed shallow,
Plants 2 to 4 in.
Seed shallow.
Plants 2 to 3 in.
2 in.
Hills
Drills
Hills
Drills
Hills
Hills
Drills
Hills or
Drills
Hills
Hills
Hills or
Drills
DISTANCE APART
6Eft. x 3ft -4ft.
4 ft. x 2 in. to 3 in.
4 ft. x 6 in. to9in.
3 ft. x 2 to 4 in.
5 ft. x 15 in.-18 in.
5Sft x15 in. -18in.
3 ft. x2 in.
4 ft. x 6 ft.
4 ft. x 18 in.
3 ft. x 4 in.-6 in.
4 ft. x 6in.-12 in.
PLANTS
PER ACRE
2400
6970
6970
Seed, 3 to
4 lbs. per
acre
7260-
SEED
REQUIRED
1 qt.-100 ft.
1 qt.-150 to
200 hills
1 oz.-50 ft.
1 oz.-3000
plants
1 oz. -3000
plants
1 oz.-100 ft.
1 oz.-50hills
1 oz. 3000
plants
1 oz -5 to
10,000 plants
1 qt.-200
hills
1~1 1
~~ullvrv ------- II--1-- t rr Ir r o---1,, I/Z I"
I
VEGETABLE
Cucumber
Eggplant
Kale ---
Kohi-Rabi
Lettuce
Mustard
Okra__ - --
Onion (Seed)--
Onion (Sets)
Parsley -- --
Parsnip
Peas -----
TIME OF PLANTING
Mar. to April
Seeds in beds Feb.
April to May
Nov. to Dec.
Jan. 1 to Feb. seed in bed
Feb. 20 to April
Feb. 1 to April
Sept. to Oct.
Feb. to Mar.
Mar. to April
Feb. to Mar.
;Sept. to Oct.
Sept. to Oct.
Feb.
Feb. 15 to Mar.
Mar. to April
Jan. to Feb.
Succession
VARIETIES
Klondike, Davis Perfect, Long
Green, White Spine,
Black Beauty,
Dwarf Green Curled,
Early White Vienna, Earliest
Erfurt,
Big Boston, B. S. Tennisball,
Improved Hanson, G. Rapids
Forcing
Giant Southern Curled
Chinese
White Velvet,
Kleckley's Favorite
Red Weathersfield, Yellow Dan-
vers, Prizetaker, Crystal Wax
Red XVeathersfield, White Portu-
gal, Yellow Danvers
Extra D)ouble Curled
Hollow Crown,
Improved Guernsey
Alaska, First and Best, Nonpar
iel, Gradus, Premium Gem, 1 ele-
phone
DEPTH TO PLANT IHILLS OR DRILLSI DiSTANCE APART
4Y2in.
II I
Plants 2 to 3 in.
sin.
kin., seed
Plants 3 to 4 in.
14in.
min.
1k in.
I in.
2~in.
12 in.
Hills or
;Drills
Hills
Drills
5 ft. x18in.
4 ft. x3 ft.
3 ft. x 6 in.
' -
Hills
I I
Drills
Drills
Hills
Drills
Drills
Drills
Drills
2 to 3 in. Drills
3 ft.x12in. to 18 in.
18 in.x 8 in.to 10 in.
3 ft. x 8in. to10 in.
3 ft. x 2in.
4 ft. x2 ft. to 3ft.
8in. x3 in.to 4in.
3 ft. x 3in. to 4in.
18 in. x3in. to4 in.
3 ft. x3in. to 4in.
18 in.xl in.
3 ft. x in.
l8 in. x2 in. to 3mn
3 ft. x2 in. to 3mn.
4ft. x2 in. to3in.
18 in. x2 in. to 3in
PLANTS S EED
PER ACREJ REQUIRED
1 oz. to 50
hills
3630 1 oz.-1000
to 1500 plants
1 oz.-5000
plants
1 oz.--3000
plants
1 oz.-100 ft.
1 oz.-50
hills
1 oz.-100O ft.
1 oz.---50 ft.
1loz. -200 ft.
1 qt,--140 ft.
9680
1 qt. per
50 ft.
1 Y_
""I ~ I I
I 
I
v t ii i _ .. ,, ,_. .tea. I ~r Il I 
11- -1- --r
Pumpkin
Peppers
Potatoes (Irish)
Potatoes (Sweet)
Radish --
Spinach
Salsify -
Squash --------
Tomato - ---
Turnip ----
Watermelons -
April 15 to May
Mar. 20 to April
Feb. to Mar.
July to Aug.
Beds, Feb. 15 to Mar.
Mar. 20 to April
Jan. to Feb.
Succession
Sept. to Oct.
Mar. to April
April to May
In beds Feb. 15 to Mar. 20
to April
July to Aug.
Jan. to Feb.
July, Aug., Sept.
Mar. 20 to April
June 20 to July
Mammoth, Cashaw
Large Bell, Ruby Giant, Small
Chili, Neopolitan
Bliss Triumph, Irish Cobbler,
Burbank, Peerless, Early Rose
Southern Queen, Dooley, Nancy
Hall, Improved Jersey, Bunch
Yam
Cincinnati Market, Long Scarlet,
Scarlet Globe, Icicle, French
Breakfast
Curled Savoy, Bloomsdale,
Perfection Curled
Mammoth Sandwich Island
Early White Bush, Yellow Crook-
neck, Golden Custard, Boston
Marrow
Acme, Stone, Majestic, June Pink
Chalk's Jewell, Beauty, Earliana
Purple Top Globe, White Egg,
Yellow Aberdeen, Rutabaga, Pur-
ple Top Strap Leaved
Watson, Kleckley's Sweet. Ga.
Rattlesnake, Mountain Sweet,
Florida Favorite
1 in.
I in.
Plants 3 in.
3 to 4 in.
Seed 2 to 3 in.
Plants 3 in.
2 in.
42 in. to 1 in.
42 to 1 in.
1 in.
Seed in.
Plants 3 to 4 in.
1 in.
1 in.
Hills
Hills
Hills
Hills
Drills
Drills
Drills
Hills
Hills
(Dr ills
Hills
6 ft. x 4 ft.
3 ft. x 18 in.
31.E ft. x 14 in.
31/ ft. x 18 in.
12 in. to 20 in.xl in.
3ft. x3 in. to 4 in.
8in.x3 in. to 4 in.
l8in.x2 in. to 3n.
3 ft. x2in. to 3in.
5 ft. x 3 ft.
4 ft. x 2ft. to 3ft.
Broadcast
3 ft. x 1 in.
6 ft. x 4 ft.
oz.- 25
hills
1 oz.-1000
plants
8tol0bu.
8300
5445
1 oz.-100 ft.
1 oz.-100 ft.
1 oz. -50 ft .
1 oz.-25
hills
1 oz.-3000
plants
1oz.-150 ft.
1 oz.-30
hills
i i
I I I _