Progress Report* Series No. 5 Reprinted April 1947
AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION
of The Alabama Polytechnic Institute, Auburn, Ala.
* * . * * M. J. Funchess, Director * * * *
RAISING FISHWORMS for BAIT
H. S. SWINGLE, Fish Culturist
D. G. STURKIE, Agronomist
Outdoor worm beds. A suitable soil is the
first requirement for successful worm beds.
A sandy soil is not suitable for the growth
of either the common earthworm or the much-
prized English, or red, worm. Where sandy
soil occurs, a clay loam or clay soil must
be provided.
The simplest and most common type of worm
bed is that found beside a leaking hydrant
or other constant source of water supply.
The productivity of this type of bed depends
entirely upon the natural food available in
the soil and it is usually unsatisfactory.
A much more productive type of worm bed
is formed by the application of dishwater
to the soil, which furnishes both food and
moisture. This type varies from the small
bed, to which is carried dishwater, to the
relatively large bed supplied withthe water
piped fromthe kitchen sink. In constructing
this latter type of bed, the waste from the
kitchen sink should be carried a distance
of at least 50 feet from the house through
tile or pipe and then emptied into a long
shallow V-shaped ditch lined with boards.
This ditch should have only a very slight
downward slope, thus spreading the dish-
water over a relatively large area.
After the soil has become saturated with
dishwater, 100 or more English, or red,
worms are placed under the boards. It
usually requires about one year for the
worms in this type of bed to become suffi-
ciently numerous for use.
The worms congregate in large numbers
immediately under the boards, and, when the
fisherman decides to go fishing, he merely
lifts up a board and scoops up several
handfuls of worms from the top of the soil.
This is worm digging deluxe! It enables the
owner of such a bed to smile pityingly, to
shake his head sadly, and view with alarm
those who insist upon spading up an acre or
so for a dozen worms.
While this is the most satisfactory type
of worm bed, because it requires practically
no attention, it has one bad feature--a
sour odor, which, of course, no true fisher-
man can ever smell. However, wives can, and
perhaps an unsympathetic neighbor may also.
Thus, this type of bed is not suitable for
use in congested city districts, and in
fact can be owned by only a few fortunate
fishermen.
Raising fishworms in tubs. After consid-
erable experimentation, a method has been
developed whereby individual fishermen may
raise their own worms in the garage, base-
ment, or a vacant room. This is done in
ordinary galvanized wash tubs, metal drums
cut into lengthwise, old bathtubs, or
similar water-tight containers.
A tub 2 feet in diameter and 10 inches
deep should produce approximately 3,500 to
5,000 worms of fishing size per year. As
some should be left to breed, the fisherman
should expect to use only about 3,000 worms
from one tub per season. The number of tubs
necessary can be figured in the following
manner: approximately 100 wormsarerequired
per fisherman per trip. Assuming 50 trips
per year, a total of 5,000 worms would be
required. He would, therefore, need to keep
two tubs, or one with twice the area of the
tub previously discussed. It is recommended
that a minimum of two tubs be kept, using
the worms from one for several months and
then using them from the other. In this way
each tub remains undisturbed for a consid-
erable period and reproduction seems to be
more satisfactory under these conditions.
Each tub of worms requires 1 pound of
vegetable shortening or lard and 2 pounds
of cornmeal per month. The cost of food,
therefore, is approximately 20 cents per
tub per month, or $2.40 per year. With a
production of 5,000 usable worms per tub,
*Formerly Mimeograph 
Series.
the cost of the food required to raise 100
worms is approximately 5 cents.
Preparation of container. Tin or galva-
nized tubs or similar containers should be
painted on the inside with hot asphalt,
acid proof paint, or good house paint to
prevent rusting.
Soils. The type of soil used in the tubs
is of great importance. Sandy soils cannot
be used, apparently because the sharp sand
grains injure the digestive tract of the
worms. The soil can be tested for sand by
rubbing betweenthe fingers. If sharp sand
grains are present, the soil is unsuitable.
A clay loam or a porous clay is very satis-
factory for this purpose. If the soil does
not contain considerable organic matter,
one-fourth of its volume of dead leaves or
rotted straw is mixed with the soil.
Fishworms to be used. Several species of
earthworms were tried, but the only one
found suitable for this purpose was the
small English worm, or red worm, so highly
prized by fishermen. These worms reproduce
throughout the year under proper conditions
and are very prolific. In addition, they
will live under a wider variation of condi-
tions than most other species of earthworms.
They may be obtained from bait stores or
from local fishermen who have private beds.
These worms reach maturity in about 6
months, but can be used for fishing 3 to 4
months after hatching.
Food. A wide range of food has been tried.
Best results have been secured from the use
of a mixture of the cheapest grade of vege-
table shortening or lard, and cornmeal. The
addition of coffee grounds was without
value, contrary to popular opinion. The
application of food every 2 weeks was found
to give the best growth.
Water. The soil is kept moist throughout,
but care must be taken not to add more water
than the soil can absorb. After the tubs are
started, the addition of water every 2weeks
at the time food is added should suffice.
If the soil is too dry, the worms will move
down toward the bottom of the tub; if it is
too wet, they will all be on the surface of
the soil. The amount of water is so regu-
lated that the worms are found throughout
the upper 3 to 5 inches of soil.
Procedure. For convenience, the amounts
of food and procedure are given here for a
wash tub 2 feet in diameter and 10 inches
deep. If larger containers are used, the
amount of feed should be increased in prok
portion to the increased area of soil sur-
face.
Place the painted tub in the basement,
the garage, or in any similar protected
location. Fill the tub toadepth of approx-
imately 8 inches with the soil and leaf
mixture described above. Add sufficient
water to make the soil moist throughout.
Add 1 pound of cornmeal and 1/2 pound of
vegetable shortening or lard and mix with
the top 2 or 3 inches of soil. Add 100 or
more adult Englishworms, and cover the
soil with a damp burlap bag or strips of
wood to prevent evaporation. One month
later and every 2 weeks thereafter, add 1
pound of cornmeal and 1/2 pound of lard and
mix into the first few inches of soil. At
the same time add the necessary water
(usually about one quart). No other atten-
tion is required. Within 4 to 6 weeks,
numerous small worms should be present in
the soil and within 6 months the soil should
be saturated with fishworms of all sizes.
Removal of worms from tubs. Remove from
the tub soil containing worms and throw
loosely into a l0-quart bucket. Allow it to
stand approximately 30 minutes. Remove the
top soil from the bucket and place it back
in the tub. The majority of the worms will
be found concentrated in the bottom few
inches, because of their habit of crawling
downward through loose soil. If allowed to
stand for a longer period, practically
every worm will be found in the bottom of
the bucket and handfuls of worms can be
taken upon removing the soil above. Worms
left from a fishing trip are returned to
the tub.
Control of pests. In addition to fish-
worms, several other animals enjoy the corn-
meal and lard diet. These are mites, ants,
rats, and mice. The mites are small greyish-
white animals about the size of the head of
a pin. In case they become numerous, they
can be killed by lightly dusting the top of
the soil with sulfur dust. A very thin
application is sufficient, and it does not
injure the worms. Ants can be kept our either
by supporting the tub on logs placed in oil
or by dusting the floor around the tub with
pyrethrum dust whenever the ants appear. If
rats or mice become troublesome, the tub
may be covered with screen or with other
material which does not exclude the air.